After arriving and walking through the parking lot, buy a ticket (for the incredibly cheap price of just 200 won),
and enjoy a view of the pond (named Uijungji). Since the shrine is built much like a palace, expect to climb some
stairs to reach the next level up – then look up and find more stairs. There are three sets of stairs to reach the
You will pass a monument for “24 Distinguished Loyal Officers”, placed here in May 1988. Go up the hill towards a
small walking trail / park, and another walking trail which leads to the remains of Dongnae Fortress (the trail,
unfortunately, was closed when I passed by the entrance, so be prepared that it may not be open).
The Memorial Hall is the highlight – over 100 different items showing the battle in painting, clothes, and original
Finally you reach the Main Hall, where a wooden block represents each of the Koreans enshrined here. There are
around 85 altogether.
You will also find a small park to relax in on the way down. You may stumble upon a few ajosshis (older men) playing
baduk (Go) or jonggi (an Asian version of chess). They’re harmless enough, and watching the games themselves is an
interesting part of observing Korean life.
I appreciated reading about the history for myself, and each building presented a new piece to the puzzle. With time,
and a little thought, you eventually piece the puzzle together and come to an understanding of what happened. My only
wish was for a more complete narrative of the story (the best one was about 3 paragraphs on the outside wall of the shrine).
It’s a great place to spend the afternoon, learn some Korean history, and appreciate the sacrifices of some brave men
Getting to Chungnyeolsa is a little tricky. Take the Busan subway system to the Dongnae station (line 1), then go out
exit 12 and get on almost any of the buses at the nearby bus stop. No buses stop directly in front of the shrine, so as
soon as you see the shrine / monument on the left, get off and backtrack.
To read Chris’ original review and see all pictures, visit his blog at
Chris in South Korea.